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We got of the bus at Kenestupa at 15.40. The weather was excellent: the sun was shining, it was rather calm and the temperature was +19°C. We changed clothing in the place of departure of the path and put our rucksacks in order for the hiking. The journey started with steep with stairs. Then it was more even terrain with pines and tundra birches. A little before the border of the nature park there was a reindeer fence and we went through its gate.
Sileája
The first camp-ground called Sileája, was ashore a small lake. There was a place for the campfire, a woodshed, a garbage can, a table and benches and further back a dike. We stopped for a short pause and noticed that there was no gnats. After Sileája the path continued in between tundra birches and came to some kind of marsh where was a plank causeway. Behind the marsh the path went between two lakes. The neck between the lakes narrowed to only few meters broad. In one place the neck was broken and water flowed from one lake to an other. There was a plank bridge across the flow.
The journey continued in birch forest. There was still rotten birch stumps and pieces of trunks lying on the ground after the insect destruction in 1960s'. Old rather tall pines was growing here and there. Finally the Kevo canyon was in sight ahead and the path led downhill towards the canyon. It was easy to see how the canyon had been grooved in almost even landscape.
The second camp-ground, called Guikgahoitája, was 3,5 km from
Sileája so we had walked altogether 6 km. There were same kind of
constructions as there were at the previous camp-ground. It was bad place
for a camp as there was no water nearby. On the slope there was only a
dry brook-bed. The shoes had started to rub my heels so I put on extra
socks. After Guikhahoitája we started to approach the edge of the
canyon. The path came soon to a cliff. We looked at the canyon and I took
the first photo of it. The journey continued on the slope of the canyon
up and down.
To the Kevo canyon
Finally the path led us steeply to the bottom of the canyon. Down there was building material for stairs. On the bottom of the canyon the terrain was comfortable even pine forest. At the third camp-ground had difficult lappish name (Beahcelávojavrrit). The camp-ground was good. It was on a cape and water was near on the both sides of the cape. However, the terrain was stony so there was no good place for tent.Immediately after that camp-ground there was the first ford. There was gravel ground in the river and a cable wire to help the crossing so it seemed to be easy to cross the river. We took off our shoes and socks. I rolled up the hems of my trousers. The temperature of the water was bearable but the stones in the river were slippery and some of them were unpleasantly sharp. The depth of the water was mostly 20-30 cm but in one place the water reached to the knees. All in all the crossing was rather easy. The rope links hanging the cable wire were useful even if they didn't gave the best support.
I was a little bit hungry but there was still couple of kilometres to
the next camp-ground where we had planned to stay overnight. The path was
at times by the shore of the river and at times it was on the upper slope.
In some places it was hard to walk on the slope. We saw now and then some
reindeers. Little before the camp-ground we saw a big white male reindeer.
Tapiola Goahti
At nine o'clock we arrived Tapiola Goahti camp-ground. There was a fireplace, a table and other things belonging to a camp-ground. In addition there was a peat shelter (kammi). In the peat shelter there was a fireplace made out of stones, a hole for the smoke in the middle of the roof and benches on the side walls. We ate sandwiches drunk tea and fried sausage. As we were sitting a big reindeer with a bell started to approach the camp. It came along the path and passed us rather close. After ten we went a little further back to pitch the tent. About eleven o'clock I crawled into my sleeping bag. The outside temperature had dropped to five degrees Celsius. In the sleeping bag it was warm enough to sleep wearing only t-shirt and short pants.At night I heard the reindeer bell clanking at times quite close. I was obviously the very same reindeer we saw earlier in the evening. In the morning I got up after seven and went out to the shore. It was still quite cool as the sun was not shining at the camp-ground even if it had risen. I lit a small fire and started to write this hiking story. Two ravens flew in the canyon and croaked as they were flying to the north. Then I heard human voices from south. After a while two men came along the path. I talked a little with them. They had stayed overnight at the next camp to the south and told that it was very windy place. Seppo got up at half past eight so I started to cook porridge for breakfast.
I took about two and half hours to eat breakfast and packing rucksacks
so we were ready continue our journey after eleven. The sun was shining
already quite warm so that we were soon sweating. The path led us all the
time up and down almost on the bottom of the canyon. It was only one kilometre
to the next camp which was called Gaskkamuš njaggaleapmi. It was ashore
the river on a small hill.
Out of the canyon
The path turned and started to rise out of the canyon. At the steepest place there had been build stairs (as far I can remember 260 steps). The pulse accelerated and sweat started to flow. However, we climbed the stairs without pauses. There high up rested and admired the canyon for a long time. Then begun the eight kilometre journey on the flat terrain above the canyon ('skaidi' in lappish). At first it was nice to see widely around. At times the route seemed to be monotonous. Here and there grew tundra birches and rotten stumps were sticking everywhere. After walking two hours we stopped for a pause in al dell. There I did the same as Seppo in the morning: I took off my watch and put it to my rucksack. Knowing the exact time was needless for few days.The journey continued on the highlands. Now and then we saw a reindeer
caw with its calf. Gradually we started again to approach the canyon. We
passed some marshy ponds. The path was leading downhill and we came to
Gamajotnsuohppášájan camp. There was a pond with muddy shores
and a small brook flowing from it. The terrain was stony and I saw only
one even place for a tent. The equipment at the camp-ground was customary
but there was big a tent. There was seats and a fireplace inside it. After
the camp-ground we passed a rough call box with tall antenna and solar
panel.
Gamajotnjálmmeluoppal
We came to the bottom of the canyon and walked for a while in an exuberant terrain which was growing willows an big birches. Then we were already at the second ford. At the bottom of the river there was big round stones (diameter 10 - 30 cm) and by the shore a little sand. The water was rather cold. At the opposite bank there was short stairs and behind them camp-ground called Gamajotnjálmmeluoppal. As I looked around I noticed that somebody had left tree cans of pea soup in front of the woodshed.We started to cook lunch and decided to eat meat balls with mashed potatoes. The kettle was almost full of the mash but we ate it all up. We heard human voices and after a while young man and woman passed us and said 'good evening' to us. After eating I went to the shore to wash dishes.
The path continued on the eastern side of the river a little upper on a 'shelf'. Then we came again steeply lower. Soon we came to the next ford. Again we had to take off our rucksacks, shoes and socks and to wade in the cold water. At the place of this ford the river was quite narrow.
On the opposite bank the journey continued in a even terrain and following the river we came to the camp-ground of Roajaája. It was in open terrain ashore the river. The ground was full of round cobblestones and I couldn't notice any good places for tents. After Roajaája the path turned steeply almost to the arrival direction and we started to climb out of the canyon. In the beginning of the slope there was again stairs but the uphill continued still after the stairs. Soon we were on the highlands and still going gradually upwards. On the even ground and smooth path walking was rather easy and the rucksack was not pressing shoulders badly. There was plenty of junipers growing around. Here and there were ancient junipers whose butt diameter was 15-20 cm. There was a little autumn tints in twigs. Blueberry twigs were rather red at some places. The highland journey was more than 6 km. Approximately at the half-way there was strange lonely bench or table which was narrow but about 1 m at height. There we stopped for a long pause.
After the pause my legs started to feel stiff. When we came to the crossing
place of paths where the route to Kuivi forked from the 'main path' Seppo
'mended' an abrasion in his heel. Then we had only three kilometres left
to Fiellugeädggejohka camp-ground. However, they were long and hard
kilometres although the path started to go downhill
to the canyon. The rush of the waterfall of Fiellu could be heard from
afar.
Fiellu
The rest of the way to Fiellu we came steeply down along stairs. Down there was a peat shelter three tents and some log building. We searched place for the tent and noticed that the camp-ground was wide and popular. There was at least two fireplaces and several garbage cans. We found very good and even place for the tent farther away from the other campers.The sun had set some time ago but it was still rather light. The weather had got colder earlier but when we ate evening meal the thermometer showed only two degrees above zero. The moon was almost full and it had risen behind the opposite slope of the canyon. Before going to the tent I went to the river to wash my tooth. At last also Seppo came to the tent and we went to bed. Inside the tent it was +10°C. The noise of the waterfall was quite hard but else it was quiet.
I slept the night well. I started to wake up and I also got up soon because I was not sleepy anymore. The sun was already rather high. I chopped some fire wood for the fireplace because they were almost finished. There was third fireplace and good palaces for tent closer the waterfall. There was often used path leading towards the waterfall. I came back to the tent and took my note pad and continued writing this hiking story.
At the other tents I saw people moving. Apparently they were packing and leaving the camp. Seppo had got up as I finished writing. The sun was shining so warm that I could take of my coat. We took off the upper tent canvas and spread it on junipers to dry as it had get wet by condensed moisture. We had breakfast packed the tent and rucksacks. Then we changed shorts on because it was so warm. Then we went together to the waterfall. The path led very close the waterfall. We took several photos. The weather was not any more clear but it was + 16°C and almost calm.
We took our rucksacks to the ford of Fiellugeädggejohka river and went then to look at the peat shelter. It was rather tidy and apparently quite new. It was intended only for shelter and drying clothes. There was racks narrow benches two tables and a fireplace made out of stones. At the table there was two guest books. During August there had visited plenty of hikers. We wrote our names and some comments to the book. Then I went to look at the log building. It was only a woodshed which was full of firewood. On the other end there was a door leading to a dike department.
At last we were ready continue our journey. But fist we had to cross Fiellu creek. There was not very much water but it was not possible to cross the creek by walking on the stones. At this ford there was no cable wire but we found a pole which we used in turns helping the wading. As I was putting shoes on my camera dropped from my pocket to the shore water. It got wet only a little.
Then the route started to rise away from the canyon. First we climbed
on stairs 125 + 29 steps. The slope continued after the stairs still rather
steeply. From up there I took the last photo of the
waterfall. The path was there mostly more than one meter broad. To
the north from Fiellu the path was usually only narrow track. The destruction
area of birches seemed to finish as we saw big growing birches. We met
few hikers when crossing a gorge. Then we crossed two gorges more. At the
steepest slopes there was fortunately stairs. In the fourth gorge was a
camp-ground Gaskkamus Suohppašája. The place seemed to be cousy.
The bottom of the gorge was exuberant and there was a brook streaming.
The 'end wall' of the canyon
After Gaskkamus Suohppašája the path started to approach the edge of the canyon. We met two young men walking briskly. The path branched to many parts. One branch led to the edge of the canyon and we could peek great landscape. We followed the path on the edge of the canyon and came to its "end wall". There the valley of Kevo river expanded suddenly to be a great canyon. From the end wall there was excellent view straight to the canyon.After taking several photos we finally continued towards the next camp-ground. The canyon was not totally finished but it continued as a considerable valley. At the camp-ground of Suohppašája we prepared tomato vegetable pot for lunch. There was also at this camp-ground a big tent. It was probably late afternoon and the weather had got cooler so I put on warmer clothes.
We continued the journey gradually upwards where was no birches growing any more. Then we met four young hikers with a dog. We were in height of four hundred meters and view over the valley towards Ruohtir fjell were great. Steps got heavy and my foot were sore.
According the map there was several cross gorges ahead. The journey
to the first gorge felt to be very long. As we were having a pause there
Seppo said that we had came at least three kilometres from the end wall.
The path was at some places even two meters broad and it could be seen
incredible far ahead. We crossed three gorges which were low and dry. Then
we stopped for a longer pause by a big stone.
Geavvugeäsláttu
There was not any more long way to the last destination of the day. Walking was a little bit easier when I was walking ahead so I could define the speed. Finally we started to go downhill and came to the shore of a pond. The Geavvugeäsláttu camp-ground was on the south end of that pond. There was a several meters broad beach. At the fireplace was four young people. We moved on and found a good place for the tent rather long away from the shore. Then I wanted to know the time so I took my watch; it was almost nine o'clock.We pitched the tent, Seppo light a fire and fetched water from the pond. We cooked water by the fire as we had left only little camp cooker fuel. It was clear and it started to darken when I went to the tent. Outside the temperature was zero but inside the thermometer showed +8°C when I went to bed.
In the morning I tried to sleep late but however I got up rather early because I wasn't sleepy any more. So I went to the pond to wash myself. Then I took care of the abrasions in my heels and changes clean socks. I went to the fireplace and started to write...
After a while Seppo got up so I finished writing and started to prepare breakfast. The weather was cloudy and a little cool (+10°C). After breakfast we packed the tent and our rucksacks. We visited once more the shore. Then we went back to the rucksacks and sat to plan the rest of the route. The sun was shining for a while but then it was again cloudy.
Finally we continued the journey. The terrain was special: very sandy
and hilly. In some places there was small sandpits. Plenty of junipers
and some tundra birches was growing there. At some places there was dry
and sandy brook beds. We started to approach the border of the nature park
and soon we left the park.
Ruktajärvi
Soon we came to Ruktajärvi. There was a wilderness hut which was clearly apart from the path. Seppo noticed the hut and we walked back to follow a weak path towards the hut. As we were going to the hut we saw that there was an other, better path to the hut ahead. The hut was rather new. There was a wilderness phone an a solar panel for it. The yard was sandy and there was a fireplace, a table and benches.After Ruktajärvi the journey continued on a neck between two lakes. Stuorrajavri lake was on the right side. We crossed a short brook flowing from Nuorttahjavri lake to Suorrajavri lake along a plank. The path had changed into a cart track which had been driven with a small cross country vehicle. At some places the track was full of cobble stones but mostly it was sandy. We started to follow a path which was leading to the top of the ridge between the lakes. The ridge had a sharp top and was growing dense forest of tundra birches. At some places we had good view back to our arrival route.
The clouds on the south west sky started to seem threatening and gradually
it started to rain. Fortunately the rain was not heavy so we didn't have
to change rain clothes on. The rain weakened and stopped soon. We had passed
Nuorttahjavri and Suorrajavri lakes but there were other lakes on the right
side and the ridge continued still. We stopped for a pause and took some
photos. We saw cars moving behind the lakes. The terrain changed again
more and more sandy and hilly. We were going downhill. There were sand
pits, even twiggy and sandy terrain and beautiful junipers.
Luobmusjohka
We crossed a small road and passed a guide table of the nature park. Then there was a small brook called Luobmusjohka ahead. Behind the brook was the last camp-ground of the Kevo route which had the same name as the brook. At the camp-ground we started first to prepare a meal. Just when the meal (spaghetti with canned meat) was ready it started to rain heavily. Fortunately there was enough shelter by the wall of the woodshed. When the rain stopped I washed up the dishes at the brook while Seppo was looking for a place for the tent. The terrain was everywhere even and sandy.In the evening I went to the brook and washed almost my whole body. I didn't get cold even if the air temperature was below ten degrees and the water was probably as cold. We cooked water and ate evening meal. We went inside the tent and I started to write some notes about the day but I didn't have the energy to write more than few rows. It started to darken inside the tent as it was half past ten. I made a short visit outside and noticed that the moon had risen and it was almost clear.
At night I woke up when the roof of the tent was pattering: it was raining heavily. The rain stopped but later came still some showers. I looked at the watch first at five o'clock. After that I woke up now and then. At half past seven I got up. The sun was shining but after a while it was totally cloudy. Seppo got up at eight and we started to prepare breakfast.
As we were packing a lonely hiker came to the camp. The talkative man was just starting his journey and he complained about the heaviness of his rucksack. We talked for a while with him and wished good journey as we part.
The last two kilometres were still rather sandy and hilly terrain. We
crossed one brook and came to the end of the route
by the Karigasniemi road. We wrote our names to the book which was
there for this purpose and the journey was finished.
